Clive Hartley
The great wines of the world, in historical terms, were often sweet. The Roman Falernian, Cape Town’s Constantia of the 18th century and Hungarian Tokaji are three classic examples. Even Champagne was a hit with the Russians when they added a sweet mixture of wine, sugar and brandy.
Sweet wines can be made by a number of methods but the most famous are undoubtedly sourced from botrytis affected grapes. Botrytis cinerea, pourriture noble or “noble rot” is a fungal disease that can attack grapes that are close to maturity. Given favourable conditions (20-25°C and relatively high humidity) it has the desirable effect of dehydrating the grapes and concentrating the sugar content, without rotting them. Due to their high glycerol and sugar content the grapes produce a rich, luscious, intensely sweet dessert wine prized throughout the world. Two of the most traditional and historic countries are Hungary and France.
The first botrytis wines were not made in France, but in Hungary – by accident. The first records of Aszú (botrytis) grapes date back to 1571. Legend has it that the first wine was made when the harvest was delayed because of the threat of an attack from a marauding Turkish army.
From the 1700s, the prized sweet wines were served at the courts of Louis XIV, Peter the Great of Russia and the Habsburgs in Vienna. Known as Tokay in English or Tokaji, the Aszú wine are classified into six levels of sweetness known as puttonyos. Their longevity is renowned, as is their high acidity which balances the residual sugar that can reach up to 180 grams per litre for some styles. Local grapes Furmint (60%) and Hárslevelű (30%) are the main constituents along with another four permitted varieties.
Turning to France, the region of Sauternes, on the “left-bank” of Bordeaux, is the most famous region. But to the north of Bordeaux in the Loire region great botrytis wines are also made from the much maligned Chenin Blanc in the Bonnezeaux, Chaume, and the tiny Quarts de Chaume appellations. Back in Bordeaux more affordable botrytis wines can also be found in Sainte-Croix-du-Mont, Loupiac, Cerons, and inland to the east in Monbazillac on the river Dordogne.
On account of its thin skins, Semillon is highly susceptible to noble rot and accounts for 80% of a typical blend in Sauternes. Sauvignon Blanc makes up the remaining 20% and attracts botrytis earlier. Its naturally high acidity gives the resulting wines a freshness that balances the more robust Semillon. Muscadelle is sometimes used to provide additional aromatics. The grapes are pressed a number of times and care must be taken during the slow vinification. Alcohol levels are ideally around 13.5% with 125 g/l of residual sugar. Often a proportion will be barrel fermented and the wine usually goes into oak for 18 to 36 months. Some Sauternes producers use 100% new oak whilst others use considerably less and this influences the early life of the wine.
Henschke Noble Semillon.
Australian examples tend to be more luscious and heavier than Sauternes.
In Australia, Brown Brothers in the King Valley claims to have produced the first Australian botrytis wines. In 1934 John Charles Brown made a “sauternes” style wine from riesling and sold it to some wine buffs who understood the wine but could not sell all of it, so he fortified the rest into a sherry! Then in 1962, after rain delayed the harvest, he bottled a botrytis riesling, labelling it as a late picked riesling. Our first famous commercial botrytis from Semillon was De Bortoli Sauternes made in 1982, now known at Noble One. It remains a classic wine. I also had a great bottle of 2022 Noble Semillon from Henschke in the Eden Valle that displayed all the delicious cumquat marmalade and apricots that make these wines so moreish.
When serving a sweet wine with dessert make sure the wine is sweeter than the pudding or else it will taste insipid. Classically, foie gras would be served with botrytis wine, either simply fried or made into a parfait or terrine. Duck pate is a simpler alterative but this can be expanded to other dishes that perhaps have a similar intense flavour such as strong cheese soufflé or a caramelized onion and blue cheese tart. So you could crack a bottle open and use it at both ends of the meal.
Clive Hartley is an award-winning wine writer, educator and consultant. Check out his fortnightly radio show on Hepburn Community Radio website called “put a cork in it”. Want to learn more about wine? Try his book the Australian Wine Guide (7th ed) – available for purchase from Paradise Books in Daylesford, Stoneman’s BookRoom in Castlemaine or from his website – www.australianwineguide.com.au
