Clive Hartley
The Nagambie Lakes is an achievable day trip from Daylesford, with a coffee stop at Heathcote along the way. When you arrive, you might like lunch and there is no better place to eat than at Eighteen Sixty restaurant which is a regional treasure with their tasty Italian food. The name pays homage to the year that vines were first planted in the region at Tahbilk winery.
Everyone should visit Tahbilk. The entire property is dripping with history. In 1860 a group of Melbourne businessmen got together and decided to build a winery and vineyard which did well until the destructive aphid Phylloxera hit town. Some vines were kept alive and not affected due to the sandy soils. In 1925 self-made businessman Eric Reginald Purbrick bought the property and it has remained in the Purbrick family for 5 generations. The vast property has an 8km wetland trail, restaurant, historic buildings, which once held a whole community, and underground cellars that were built in 1862. Then there are the vineyards, 300 shiraz vines dating back to 1860, as well as the largest and oldest plantings of marsanne vines in the world.
It is worth signing up to their cellar door programs, which I rate as one of the best in the country, where the release of aged wines is a regular feature. Recently I got to taste some of their current releases. 2017 Marsanne ($27.95) was full of lanolin, honeysuckle and limes with a long dry finish. Their dry 2023 Grenache Mourvèdre Rosé ($21.95) had lovely red fruits, refreshing, fruity and juicy.
They also do some superb Cabernet as well as Shiraz wines, with great ageing ability, especially in their Eric Stevens Purbrick range. The current 2017 Shiraz ($72.95) is outstanding with blackberry, liquorice, chocolate and vanilla pod aromas. The palate is velvet smooth with polished tannins, well balanced acidity and an earthy, warm finish. The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon ($72.95) is not far behind, showing a hint of eucalypt, earthiness and blackberry fruits. The 2018 Old Vine Cabernet Shiraz ($44.95) has strong tobacco, earth, cedar aromas and is an elegant medium to full bodied wine on the palate. These are restrained, traditional styled reds and speak of place. Full tasting notes are on my website.
Clive Hartley
Clive Hartley is an award-winning wine writer, educator and consultant. Check out his fortnightly radio show on Hepburn Community Radio called “put a cork in it”. Want to learn more about wine? Try his book the Australian Wine Guide (7th ed) – available for purchase from Paradise Books in Daylesford or through his website – www.australianwineguide.com.au
