Adam Ford

With a vast array of things to see and do and undoubtedly limited time to do them in, every stop on your Canadian holiday itinerary must be carefully assessed. And it may be tempting to discount the nation’s capital Ottawa based on its bureaucratic function, but that would be a mistake. In fact, this vibrant city of one million people could turn out to be one of the biggest surprises of your holiday!

Back in 1857, the then little-known logging township of Bytown (renamed Ottawa) was Queen Victoria’s surprise choice for the newly formed Province of Canada’s capital. Sitting on the border of the rival states of Upper Canada (Quebec) and Lower Canada (Ontario), it was actually a canny compromise on the part of Her Majesty.

Today, Ottawa is home to a striking mix of modern and heritage architecture and hosts many major cultural institutions. It also does great dining and shopping. Sitting on Parliament Hill, the imposing Gothic Revival parliament building overlooks the CBD and Ottawa River (the border between the provinces of Quebec and Ontario). It’s the city’s most significant landmark and guided tours have long been popular. It’s currently closed for a major renovation but visitors can still tour other parts of the parliamentary precinct. (Book online well in advance). If you happen to be in town in summer, you can also watch the regal Changing of the Guard ceremony.

Can you recommend somewhere special to stay?

The multi-turreted Fairmont Château Laurier was constructed around the turn of the 20th century in the tradition of Canada’s great railway hotels. The Canadian Pacific Railway built a string of these luxury properties across the country at the turn of the 20th century to promote domestic rail travel. The hotel has recently undergone a multimillion-dollar upgrade, but has lost none of its heritage character. Book in for a traditional high tea with all the trimming during your stay.

What about places to eat?

Ottawa’s dining scene is extremely diverse, which reflects the diversity and multicultural make-up of Canada as a nation. Beckta is one of the city’s top eateries and is housed in a beautifully restored heritage building on the edge of the city grid. It serves a three-course set menu of “New Canadian” dishes, or a five-course chef’s tasting menu (which you can pair with a carefully curated selection of wines).

On the opposite side of town, Atelier is another dining stand-out. It offers a standard 40-course tasting menu (yes, you read that right!), which is served to every guest. It does cater for dietary requirements, but otherwise you just put yourself in the chef’s hands and enjoy the ride.

What are the must-sees and dos around town?

The Canadian Museum of History is the country’s most visited museum and one of the highlights here is the permanent First Nations exhibition. The excellent Canadian War Museum documents Canada’s role in many military conflicts, while the National Gallery of Canada is the country’s pre-eminent arts facility. Be sure to check out the paintings by the pioneering Group of Seven artists, who interpreted aspects of the Canadian landscape through striking colour during the 1920s and 30s.

Historic ByWard Market is probably Ottawa’s most popular attraction. Covering four city blocks, you’ll find stalls offering fresh produce, handmade goods, clothing, souvenirs, and much more. There are also more than a hundred places to eat in this area and plenty of opportunities to fuel up for more sightseeing over a coffee and French-style pastry. Alternatively, dive into a Beavertail (think a large flat crispy donut loaded with sweet toppings).

Nature lovers will enjoy a visit to Gatineau Park — a 360-square-kilometre conservation reserve just a short drive from the city centre. Snowshoeing and cross-country skiing give way to hiking, cycling, and canoeing as the weather warms up. It’s possible to spot wildlife here all year round.

Adam Ford is editor of the Top Oz Tours & Travel Ideas website and a Daylesford-based travel TV presenter, writer, blogger, and photographer. He has travelled extensively through Europe, Asia, North America, Africa, and the Middle East. Adam worked as a travel consultant for a number of years with Flight Centre before taking up the opportunity to travel the world himself as host of the TV series Tour the World on Network Ten. He now hosts the top rating YouTube channel Oz and Beyond Travel Series and the fortnightly Travel Show with Robyn Rogers on Hepburn Radio.

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