Clive Hartley
Riesling is a bit of a paradox. It should be our most popular styles as it can be made steely dry or lusciously sweet and is therefore a match for many dishes. Add to that it is capable of withstanding many decades in the bottle, if stored correctly. It should be cheaper than say chardonnay as it doesn’t marry with oak. Bu it still languishes in sales and a sad addendum on some restaurant wine lists. In fact, Australia has been grubbing or grafting over vines for many years, and the variety has slipped behind the likes of pinot grigio, semillon, colombard and prosecco into 8th position on the white varietal charts.
On a brighter note Australia has the fourth highest plantings of riesling with only Germany, France and the United State of America growing more. Clare Valley still leads the way in plantings in Australia. Other areas that have an excellent reputation for riesling include: Eden Valley, Adelaide Hills, Strathbogie Ranges, Mount Barker, Frankland River, Canberra District and Tasmania.
In my books there are a number of cheaper rieslings coming onto the market that lack the intensity which makes them unworthy of drinking. Add to that they often have razor sharp acidity that can become uncomfortable to drink. This is what I try and avoid. What I look for is more fruit-ripe, but still dry, styles of riesling. Alternatively, try a riesling with some residual sugar (often containing lower alcohol as well). Intensity on the palate is key.
We are blessed to be in a region with plenty of local choices that I find attractive. Try Dhillon Riesling sourced from the Glenhope vineyard. One of my firm favourites is Granite Hills Riesling which is floral and minerally and opens up on the palate to be nicely intense. Another well trusted wine comes from Best’s Great Western, especially their Foudre Fermented one. Lyons Will Riesling is an interesting wine that sees some time in oak.
From further a try Singlefile The Pamela Riesling or Castle Rock Riesling, both from Porongurup (WA) or Freycinet Riesling from Tasmania.
Clive Hartley is an award-winning wine writer, educator and consultant. Check out his fortnightly radio show on Hepburn Community Radio website called “put a cork in it”. Want to learn more about wine? Try his book the Australian Wine Guide (7th ed) – available for purchase from Paradise Books in Daylesford, Stoneman’s BookRoom in Castlemaine or from his website – www.australianwineguide.com.au
