While riesling and semillon date back to early settler’s time in Australia, chardonnay has only a short history of around 60 plus years. The Gin-Gin clone of chardonnay, famous in WA, for instance, arrived in Australia in 1957. The most common clone found in Australia is the Mendoza clone that arrived in 1968 and the ‘lab-rat’ sounding I10V5. Since then, we have seen a number of UCL Davis (Californian) and Burgundy (French) clones arrive and make an impact in Australia. A clone is made from a single, superior ‘mother vine’ selected and propagated from cuttings, usually by a research centre or nursery. It sounds simple but it takes years of development and trials to perfect a new clone.
Clones can give various aromas and flavours such as tropical fruits, grapefruit, floral or lemon. However, climate, viticulturalist and winemaker have the last say. In cool climates like the Macedon Ranges you get more acidity and elegance from chardonnay. Then it depends on the winemaker and the techniques they use to add flavour and complexity. The type and length of oak maturation, exposure to air, the process of malolactic fermentation and lees stirring in barrel are all common tricks a winemaker can use to increase aroma, flavour and texture.
My ideal wine shows a balance between some winemaking derived flavours as well as primary fruit. It should a least be medium bodied with some creaminess and oak influence, balanced with acidity. You want a chardonnay to be complex and savoury with a long finish. Drink riesling or sauvignon blanc if you want a simple fruit driven wine.
Local wines that I keep coming back to are Curly Flat Chardonnay, Hanging Rock Jim Jim Chardonnay, Passing Clouds Estate Chardonnay and Musk Lane Faraday Vineyard Chardonnay. Around Victoria Bannockburn and Scotchmans Hill in Geelong and Giant Steps and Yering Station in the Yarra as well as Bass River in Gippsland have been recent good performers.
Finally, here are some recently tasted Australian chardonnay from further afield that come recommended. From WA I’ve had Plantagenet Wyjup Collection, Mount Barker Chardonnay 2023, Juniper Estate in Margaret River – both their Three Fields 2022 and Karridale Chardonnay 2023 and Cherubino Margaret River Chardonnay 2024.
From South Australia try Ekin Wine Co Chardonnay 2024 and Tambo Merrill Chardonnay 2022, both from Adelaide Hills and Landaire Chardonnay 2022 from Padthaway.
Clive Hartley is an award-winning wine writer, educator and consultant. Check out his fortnightly radio show on Hepburn Community Radio website called “put a cork in it”. Want to learn more about wine? Try his book the Australian Wine Guide (7th ed) – available for purchase from Paradise Books in Daylesford, Stoneman’s BookRoom in Castlemaine or from his website – www.australianwineguide.com.au
