Clive Hartley
I first visited Kyneton Ridge in early 2020 when Andrew and Angela Wood had just recently taken over. The vineyard dates from 1997 with the original vineyard being planted by John Boucher and Pauline Russell. It is located along the Blackhill Road, and only 10 minutes out of Kyneton. In 2022 their son Patrick came onboard as winemaker, together with his partner, Greta Darling-Filby. The Woods have increased plantings from 5 to 13 acres and have just received certification and membership of Sustainable Winegrowing Australia.
This organisation is a collaboration between the Australian Wine Research Institute, Wine Australia and Australian Grape and Wine – in other words all the major bodies associated with the Australian wine industry. While there are seven members of Sustainable Winegrowing Australia in the Macedon Ranges, Kyneton Ridge is the only certified member which is undergoing an independent audit of their vineyard. Sustainable grape growing involves looking after the environment and protecting the land and soil, enhancing its fertility for long term productivity. Improving water management, increasing biodiversity, lowering emissions and reducing waste are all cornerstones of sustainability. Some of the measures that Kyneton Ridge has implemented include a 30 acre “bug corridor” to encourage pollinators and beneficial insects as well as applying organic composts, companion and inter-row planting to improve soil microbiology. There is a separate certification process for the winery operations which Kyneton Ridge is working towards.
While it is all good for the environment, does it improve grape and wine quality? Well, if their 2024 Skipping Rabbit Pinot Noir is anything to go by, then I think it does. The wine has complex aromas of five spice, lifted herbs and floral notes. The palate is soft and smooth with black cherry flavours with touches of cool climate wet stone minerality. It is round and well balanced. “Highly Recommended” in my ratings guide. This is their “estate” pinot (they also produce a Reserve wine) and is well priced at $35. Their Reserve Chardonnay 2024 reminded me of a Cru Chablis and was very minerally, slate driven but it also had plenty of malolactic notes and oaky lees contact. It’s a lighter style of chardonnay driven by some lemony acidity.
The cellar door is open at the weekend and offers a free tutored tasting of six wines which you can book online. Angela Wood runs the cellar door Ridge Café and is also an artist, which is handy as they also have an art space that has exhibitions rotating every six weeks.
Incidentally, Patrick and Greta have their own label called Harbinger.
Clive Hartley is an award-winning wine writer, educator and consultant. Check out his fortnightly radio show on Hepburn Community Radio called “Put a Cork in it”. Want to learn more about wine? Try his book the Australian Wine Guide (7th ed) – available for purchase from Paradise Books in Daylesford or from his website – www.australianwineguide.com.au
